30 January 2012
Villa dos Pescatores is a fisherman’s village on the bay, just north of Maputo. In the old LM days I watched craftsmen build boats from raw timber here, in the bush, with nothing but basic hand tools. Things have changed, but not much. Follow the Costa do Sol to get here.
Great North Road. The En1 is the main road that runs all the way north. Every few km there’s a town or a village where traders try to make a living by selling all sorts of things – a lot of it locally grown or -made - to passing traffic.
Zeka Saia makes and sells his concrete sculptures in Manhica along the main road. Little Adriano thinks his dad is cool. I thought so too.
Not cool, and certainly not Green. Charcoal sold by the roadside and carted into the city by the truckloads - product of the notorious slash-and-burn practice that leaves natural habitat denuded and unbalanced.
THIS is Green! Brickmaking kilns; right next to where the clay is dug by hand, the wood for firing it grows, and the customers drive by. No electricity, no machines, no nothing. Just plain old effort and enterprise.
Mozambique’s famous cashew nuts sold by the roadside - in plastico these days.
Bilene, on one of the many coastal lakes near Macia. It’s another place I remember from my youth, but then it was called Sao Martino and the road there wasn’t tarred.
Bagdad Café? Yep, that’s it in the background.
Here’s a tip: Avoid travelling in rural areas in the late afternoon. That’s when the homu herds are driven home for the night - invariably along the road.
The Madonse river crossing on the road to my camp. At the peak of the recent floods (caused by cyclone Dando) the water level was above where my wheels are parked on the high bank – 6m deep!
Even elephant got stuck when things got wet. One of these tracks on the bank of the Madonse is more than a metre deep. (No; Franqui – all dressed up in the background - is not a waiter or the drummer in a jazz band; he’s a scout. I picked him up at church in Massingir.)